Natural high

Verjus (Jackson Square)

RESTAURANTS • First Person

When Michael and Lindsay Tusk (of Quince and Cotogna fame) first opened Verjus in 2019, they introduced the concept of a Parisian-inspired cave à manger to San Francisco, and the natural wine bar was the hottest new restaurant of the year. When the pandemic hit soon after, the Tusks first converted it to a retail space, then shut it down, promising an eventual return when the time was right.

That time has come, as the restaurant’s red door once again swung open last month.

Most of the original details are still in place: the glossy red ceiling shining over the room; the illuminated marquee menu above the open kitchen which shuffles weekly; a wine wall racked with bottles and a library-style rolling ladder. And so many excited diners, all jockeying for a table or standing at the bar, explaining in a bemused way how it seemed that Verjus had never left.

Verjus (round deux) remains deceptively — and paradoxically — casual. Whether or not you like it will hinge on how you feel about squatting on a backless stool while drinking a $20-something glass of outstanding French wine and nibbling on a $10 single oeuf en mayonnaise.

If your back allows it, the rewards are ample. The food is impeccable: a prettily packed pate en croute, sausages stuffed in house, and a simply perfect omelette rolled around creamy boursin. The pain perdu, maybe the best dessert I’ve eaten all year, arrives with crispy edges, a custardy center, and a dark caramel pushed to that delicious brink of burnt sugar. And this time around, writer and bartender Thad Vogler (who founded Bar Agricole) consulted on a new cocktail menu, aptly supplementing that excellent wine list.

There are a couple ways to play a trip to Verjus. Slide in early and settle in for a long happy hour of bubbles, buttered radishes, and any of the above delights. Or lean into the scene and join the crowd on the later side. One new touch in 2.0: a DJ booth in the corner. Either way, it’ll be good to be back. –Becky Duffett

→ Verjus (Jackson Square) • 550 Washington St • Tues–Thurs 4-10p, Fri & Sat 4-11p. • Reserve.