Making waves

Caché (Inner Sunset)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: SF’s French obsession continues with Caché, which opened earlier this month in the Inner Sunset. Joining Verjus, Bon Délire, Galinette, et al, the restaurant is the work of manager Florent Thomas and chef Simon Mounier, former colleagues at a restaurant in Bordeaux.

The Vibe: The sweet spot near Golden Gate Park (most recently Queens Superette) flows deceptively deep into an L-shaped space sandwiched between Green Apple Books and Marnee Thai. A terracotta red tile bar greets you at the front, then winds into a crook of indoor tables. A leafy green deck with bistro chairs marks the end. The paint job plays with lots of undulating lines, squiggled above the bar and rolling behind a banquette.

The Food: Caché announces itself as an emphatically modern bistro with bright green curry in quinoa risotto. Reservations were competitive opening week, so I bellied up to the bar for a flaky skate wing crisped in brown butter and balanced on sweet parsnips and a thinly sliced beef crudo scattered with chopped raw oyster. The sweets are a bit too sweet (the $23 big cookie for two is a commitment). At lunch, there’s an octopus hot dog, with a single tentacle filling a brioche bun.

The Drink: The wine list has a natural bias and tours regions from Alsace to Bordeaux. Cocktails come with or without alcohol.

The Verdict: The space is cute, the food is fun, and every dish proved thought-provoking. The menu still feels fairly experimental — some hits, and some areas where they’re still finding their feet. Given the team’s deep experience and attentive service, I’d give these French guys a moment to figure out their new audience in SF, as there’s a hit in the making waiting to emerge. –Becky Duffett

→ Caché (Inner Sunset) • 1235 9th Ave • Mon, Wed & Thu 1030a-2p, 5-9p, Sat-Sun 11a-230p, 5-930p • Reserve.