Fire station

Eylan (Menlo Park)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Opened January in Menlo Park, upscale Indian restaurant Eylan is the newest venture from chef Srijith “Sri” Gopinathan and entrepreneur Ayesha Thapar, who also own Palo Alto’s Ettan, the fast-casual Little Blue Door in Los Altos, and San Francisco’s gorgeous fine dining spot Copra.

The Vibe: Located on the ground floor of an apartment complex on a busy avenue connecting Palo Alto to Menlo Park, a heavy, intricate door leads to a dimly lit, bustling dining room with trees, upholstered seating, large tables conducive to group gatherings, and a show-stopping mural at the bar.

The Food: Gopinathan is known for his bold and regional approach to Indian food, which Eylan builds on with a live fire kitchen. A whole menu section is dedicated to the wood-fired grill, which yields standout dishes like a celeriac and pineapple kebab and nicely charred hispi cabbage served on a bed of tikka masala and (the unexpected yet welcome addition of) burrata. Also on the menu are breads like the Dungeness crab mutabar, light appetizers like taro root chaat, and desserts that range from a refreshing kesar mango ice with lime creme and grapefruit vinaigrette to the sweet masala chai sundae.

The Drinks: Eylan’s atmosphere is suited to cocktails, and the menu covers spirits of all stripes. Especially compelling are the Bombay Green featuring Darjeeling dry gin and dry spices, and the Bazaar Paloma with a hint of tamarind.

The Verdict: Eylan feels like a delightful surprise that’s fun to stumble upon, but its top-notch menu sends it into the echelon of Menlo Park’s destination dining. –Flora Tsapovsky

→ Eylan (Menlo Park) • 500 El Camino Real Ste 101• Tue-Sun 5-10p • Reserve.