Fillmore’s phoenix

RTB Wine Lounge, Fillmore

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Rising from the ashes of Avery, the Michelin-starred jewel in Fillmore that chef Rodney Wages picked up and moved to Edinburgh last November, RTB Wine Lounge finds the right balance of luxe and accessibility with a stellar wine list and elevated bar bites in a fine-dining-worthy space. 

The Vibe: RTB's unmarked storefront leads to a hideaway that gets better the deeper in you wander. Down a flight of stairs, there’s a small lounge with a wraparound couch, perhaps for a glass of bubbles. Back on the main floor, generously spaced modern noir couches and posh booths afford a level of comfort not often seen in San Francisco's tightly packed establishments. 

The Food: The small plates menu, designed by Wages, features nuanced spins on some of Avery's classics. Signature tortellini in brodo reaches unami bliss with shitake mushroom and cultured butter. Chicken wings stuffed with scallion rice blended with beef tendon fat jolt when dipped in house fermented dipping sauce. For dessert: a pizzelle beeswax ice cream sandwich with burnt honey powder.

The Drinks: French varietals dominate the wines by the glass, but there are also impressive California and sake flights. The bottles list is largely a holdover from Avery's cellar, and your best bet might be to put yourself in the hands of general manager and beverage program head Sean Widger, one of a number of Avery alums on the RTB roster.

The Verdict: An ideal spot for a pour (or two) and memorable snacks to go with, especially when you can’t make it to Scotland. Bonus: It’s open late, until 11p Tuesday through Friday and 2a on Saturday. –Adrian Spinelli

→ RTB Wine Lounge (Fillmore) • 1552 Fillmore St • Reserve.