Deep-fried nostalgia

Bob’s Donuts (Polk Gulch)

GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Bakery

In my youth, I swayed in line at the original Bob’s Donuts at two in the morning, debating whether or not to get a bacon-wrapped hot dog for the wait. As the Polk Street bars went dark, we stared at the racks of donuts glowing in the 24-hour donut shop’s window, shuffling in line through the golden shop. Do you have enough cash? A dollar or two could save the day. Do you know what you want? Maybe an old fashioned or maple bar, fresh and still warm from the deep fryer.

These days, I’m swinging by Bob’s in broad daylight for a bite of the best apple fritter in San Francisco. Established in 1953, the Ahn family bought Bob’s in 1977 and made it the legacy business it is today. Though they opened a second location on a sunny corner of Nopa in 2019, and a third in a cute cottage in Mill Valley in 2022, the original remained the heart of the business.

But in February, the bakery moved out of the spot it occupied since the 1950s to a fresh, glossy shop one block up. The far larger space has more of everything: fryers, donuts, seating, Apple Pay. It doesn’t have that deep-fried aroma of the ages, but it’s still Bob’s, with a classic blue store front, white cursive signage, and donut-themed knickknacks. Change can be hard, but it’s worth it. –Becky Duffett

→ Bob’s Donuts (Polk Gulch) • 1720 Polk Street • Wed-Sat 8a-2p.